For most, Transylvania (Latin for "beyond the forest") conjures up images of the legendary film character Dracula, hiding high up in his mountain castle by day, swooping down and devouring unsuspecting villagers by night. But more than legend speaks here. This is a dramatic region of contrasts, where the Carpathian mountains climb into peaks and dive into valleys, a place where the bear and boar roam free in thick forests. It's a land where farmers still work the soil with plows pulled by buffalo, while in the cities, people rush about town through narrow streets lined with fourteenth century buildings, chatting on their mobile phones.